After graduation from basic skills, You are ready to join our member training program. You and your dog have learned many new skills, but now, practice is needed to make them permanent and reliable.
While some members are serious trainers with goals of earning titles and showing their dogs, Many just want a pet that they can rely on.
Whichever you are, there is a place for you.
,Two things to think about;
1. Have you cleaned up well from the last accident? if you leave scent behind, dogs are likely to repeat (make sure there is no ammonia in your product).
2. Are you consistent in your timing. Both feeding and walking. Free Feeding (bowl of food down, eat when you feel like it) leads to needing to potty whenever. There is a direct link between eating and potty time. Control one you should have control of the other.
A thought: Don't have time for a extra walk? Clean-up takes longer!
Dr. Deva Khalsa, VMD
Similar to Alzheimer’s disease in humans, Canine Cognitive Dysfunction is caused by physical changes in the brain and its chemicals. Past studies have shown that some older dogs with CCD have brain lesions similar to those that physicians see in Alzheimer’s patients. The result result of these changes is a deterioration of how your dog thinks, learns, and remembers, which causes behavioral changes that can disrupt the lives of both you and your dog. If your senior dog doesn’t seem to be herself, she may be part of the large percentage of dogs age 10 and older who experience some symptoms of CCD, which include various stages of confusion and disorientation.
Your dog may have CCD if she has a number of the following behaviors:
Worried about car sickness?
Acclimate your dog to the car. Lots of very short rides to a fun place. Down the block to a park or just down the block to a walk. He needs to learn to look out the window to avoid nausea.
Sometime for very fearful dogs feeding them their dinner in the car - first with the car turned off then later with the car running helps them over come their issues.
Try a filled (not much) kong type toy. Smear peanut butter on the interior and let him have it in the car with the car parked in your driveway. Eventually, Move the car just to a new parking spot while he is chewing. And, when that doesn't stop him from chewing, drive a little further.
You vet may recommend and anti nausea pill.
What is a lure, a bribe & a reward?
By Linda Gantert, BCDTC member
What is a Lure??
A lure — food or a toy — is presented BEFORE a desired
behavior specifically to entice the dog to perform the required response voluntarily and on cue. When luring dogs, it is taken for granted that the dog would gladly do what we want if only he knew what we wanted him to do. Luring specifically teaches the dog what response is required for each command. Luring teaches the meaning of the commands. Without the use of lures, the dog may be perfectly willing & eager to please but has no idea what we want him to do, like asking a novice dog to sit for example. In fact, the dog may have no idea that we want him to do anything at all.
What is a Reward?
Rewards are given to the dog AFTER the desired response to reinforce the immediately preceding appropriate behavior so it is more likely to occur again in the future. The dog’s favorite treat, toys, games, activities & of course, affection may all be used effectively. Additionally, praise is a great reward since it can be used at almost any time & in any scenario; like the dog is some distance away.
What is a Bribe?
A bribe, again food or a toy, is offered or promised before a required behavior in an attempt to coerce the dog to perform the specific command. But some dogs may accept the bribe but then still refuse to do what the trainer wants. Other dogs may comply if a bribe is in the offering but otherwise refuse. Not only is bribery ineffective but it may create training problems. Bribe-contingent reliability is the most common problem created not only by dog trainers but parents & politicians as well.
Some other articles of interest:
What is your dog learning?
At our recent trial, a few members struggled with their dogs in the obedience ring and wondered why? the conversation that ensued might help others in that same position.
Member matches. How do you use them? And what is your dogs take-a-way? Do you go in the ring every month and hope to get a good score or a ribbon? If you do and your performance is slipping or your dog makes the same mistakes please reconsider how you use our matches.
If your dog walks into the gates at any match and makes mistakes, or does good work and is un rewarded, he is learning that what he does in the ring doesn’t matter to him. He can wander about and nothing happens. It’s been called “ring wise” but it looks more like ring foolish.
The wise trainer trains in the ring! Its called ”FEO” (For Exhibition Only). No ribbons, No prizes, just a well trained dog!
-Submitted by Lynn Millar
What is this attention thing?
Why should your dog watch you? Are you interesting? Are you pleasant? Is your relationship with your dog well maintained? Are you rewarding?
If your dog isn’t watching you while you are heeling, he is probably out of heel position and checking out what else is happening in the environment. He may be sniffing the ground or just thinking about other things.
If an ATM machine was shooting out $20 bills where would you stand? Nearby or down the block? Heel position should be your dogs version of the $20 spitting ATM. Add to that random and unpredictable and you’ve got a plan.
So what is your dog’s version of a $20 bill? Probably many things, so figure it out and use them all. Liver, turkey, tennis ball, squeaky toy, frisbee, ear scratch, being told how smart he is?
Start out being generous with his favorite thing, probably food since it keeps him close to you, and reward a lot when he is looking at you. Keep the food in your hand, and up at your naval. DO NOT LURE! Luring is holding the food out in front of your dogs nose and letting him follow. YOUR DOG LEARNS NOTHING FROM THIS. He needs to choose to be in heel position and you mark the moment, say “GOOD” and feed. Do it a lot at first. Feed so he stays in position. Begin to expect longer periods of attention. Become random and unpredictable in your rewards, mix in tennis balls and other things sometimes.
Good attentive heel position is the basis of a good working team.
-Submitted by Lynn Millar